Several times I've been travelling by pushbike in Southeast Asia. Now, after my third biking holiday, I want other travellers to know what I experienced. Summer 1994, Sulawesi, Flores, Lombok, Surabaya My excellent experiences with cycling in Vietnam made me embark on this tour, though many friends and relatives said it was impossible, reckless, foolish. The bike: --------- I knew I was going to do mountains, so I bought a state of-the-art DM 1000.- trekking bike, equipped with the 7-speed Shimano brake hub. I didn't want one of these 18-speed derailleur-gears (the ones with the chain being moved from one to the other cogwheel, don't know the proper english name, sorry). I thought they might be too vulnerable for bus transport. I tested the bike 6 month before I left for Sulawesi. At home, I already had problems with some of the lightweight aluminium and plastic parts. Sulawesi: --------- My rucksack was almost 8 kg (on the carrier), plus a 1 kg camera (on the handlebar). Ideal weight. The bike was going fine, the saddle was comfortable and I could easily do 100 km / day on the flatlands between Ujung Pandang and Pare-Pare. In the Enrekang area I had a 30 km day but usually, it was 50..60 km in the mountains. No problem with the 7 gears, more I didn't need. The aluminium wheels of my bike where not the best choice, I should have taken steel. I had to realign my spokes every 2 days ! Many of the cosmetic plastic parts got lost on bad roads. My front lamp fell apart but could be fixed. Electrical contacts suffered corrosion and needed weekly attention. Still I needed that light because I was often travelling 2 hours into the night. After the mosquito swarms (18:30..19:00), cycling gets comfortable again. Often the sky is cloudy but whenever the sun comes out, a hat is essential equipment. In Tanah Toraja, I did most of the tourist spots from Makale. With the bike, I was always welcome and easily managed to avoid the busy times when busloads of tourists populate the attractions. The camera on the handlebar is a convenient arrangement for snapshots. I never brought home pictures like this ! I was scared to find out how many terrible bus accidents happen on the roads, you hardly see them when you travel on a bus yourself. Animals on the road include snakes and all kinds of insects, I even saw a run-over tiger. The road from Wotu to Pendolo (southern tip of Danau Poso) is in fairly good condition, now (94). All asphalt, only one bridge broken, some more in need of repair. It is very scenic, requires a strong heart to get up and good brakes to get down. Still it is worth the effort. It was there that I saw the dead tiger on the road. In Pendolo, I asked the people if they knew of any tigers around - no. Later I showed the photo to my friends and they said: No real tiger, just a small tiger, not dangerous ! Eh, this thing was definitely bigger than a dog and had wonderful teeth, I can't believe it's just a pet. Have you had any reports from travellers who encountered tigers in that area ? The boat from Pendolo to Tentena can carry bikes. Nice view, but fish of lake now getting less because of dam for electricity generation, an environmentalist told me. The water is still clean, good for swimming. The most popular place in Tentena is that nice, clean hotel right by the harbour. A bike is useful to visit the Salopa waterfall (the best I've ever seen, and not slippery ! You can buy tuak at the village there !) and the rapids near Tentena. Just outside town, they have been setting up a cave with some bones and skulls and a casket, Torajan style. Made to attract tourists. Lots of mosquitos there. From Tentena, Lore Lindu Park is not accessible by mountainbike. 2 tourists had returned. Too muddy though no rain. People around Tentena are friendly and honest. They are happy to give any info on the trekks around Tentena, even if you don't hire a guide. A map of Lore Lindu Park would be nice in the LP, but it can encourage more people to go there and the area might get spoiled. North of Tentena, I run my bike into a hole on the street and get the front wheel twisted. I can still go on, but the tire wears off quickly since it rubs the rim brake. The brake I cannot use, now. In Palu, it is time to return to Ujung Pandang (by air: Bike goes as one piece of luggage, my rucksack is hand luggage). In Ujung Pandang, I try to find a new rim and tire. Takada, not have. Maybe in Jakarta, they say. 28" tires from China are slightly bigger than the ones from Europe ! Take a close look at the millimetres ! What they have is 40-635 ! Same for the rims. Europe all 36 holes, China 32 (front) or 40 (rear). Replace the complete wheel: The axle will be too thick and the rim-brake will not fit. A real nasty situation. At one of the shops, they offer to hammer my bent rim and they are successful. I was lucky. The worn tire I have to live with. A good place to stay in UP is Dolly & Reins homestay, 121 Gunung Lompobatang, Tel. 318936. On their 1994 leaflet it says: Free Breakfast, rooms: doubles 10K, singles 6K. It is a friendly and clean place, but not a lot of sun getting in and very simple. Rein was doing Amateur Radio (HAM-Radio) and is now keen on computers. Almost all of the people I met between Ujung Pandang and Palu were very friendly and honest. Just one problem with a Moslem fanatic in Enrekang who didn't want me to stay in a hotel with Moslem people. I ended up sleeping in the room of the hotel's owner. Kapal Pelni: ------------ Going to Maumere, Flores with Pelni. Kelimutu is a good ship but economy is somewhat nasty. Try to get up to the berths quickly and fight for your terrain. If you can't get a berth, you have to sleep on the wet and dirty floor or even out on deck ! Bring your own food. What they offer is very basic, and for this there is an endless cue in the heat that rises from the engine. I got the runs next day. Flores: ------- From Moni (Flores), you can easily go up and down Kelimutu in one afternoon. I watched sundown and returned under the moonlight. The road is 50% asphalt. I took one day to visit small villages near Moni, the last 5 km of the road to Nggela are really tough. Better leave your bike in Wolojita. Even cycling the Trans-Flores-Highway is difficult. On steep and stony roads you can hardly travel 50% of your one-day-asphalt-distance. If the road or a bridge is gone, you might still be faster than the busses. On this highway, I cycle just one day. The other day is the worst bus trip of my life: We are the last bus this night and the driver knows this. No traffic to expect. There is a crashed truck by the side of the road. The driver and conductor talk: Accident last night, 3 dead, driver run away. We pass the site of the accident, the bus slows down a bit. Why ? Because one of our tires is punctured ! We continue to the next village. After repair, we can go on at full speed. The driver thinks that old bridges are better crossed as fast as possible ! In Flores, children often call "hello missis" instead of "hello mister". If you ignore them, some throw stones. Some also throw stones if you don't want to give them gula-gula, ballpen or uang ! A cycle helmet is useful for your protection... Lombok: ------- One day is enough to cross Lombok from East to West. A bike is the right transport to most destinations on Lombok. Hati-hati, Sasak children throw stones after "bule". What is the best way to access Rinjani by bike ? Surabaya: --------- Cycling in Surabaya is not as bad as it sounds. It is a huge city but not difficult to cycle. Traffic is well-controlled (to Indonesian standards). Though cycling in the heat of the city is a bit inconvenient, a bike is faster than a bus or personal car. At the end of my tour, I sold the bike. Too many small things had been damaged, repair in Indonesia was difficult and it wasn't worth having it done in Germany. I bought an original Chinese bike (Phoenix). This is a real beautiful souvenir, all my friends admit. I've fitted gears for convenience. Buying a bike in Indonesia: --------------------------- 1) The most beautiful bikes are also the strongest and heaviest that you can find: They are Chinese-made Phoenix, available in green, red, blue and black. If you intend to buy a Chinese bike to bring home, make sure it is real (asli), and carries the writing "Phoenix". They make similar bikes in Indonesia, but quality is low. If you buy rem biasa (normal brakes), also buy some spare brake blocks. Not avail in Europe. I got one with rem tromel. They are not as efficient as rem biasa but less sensitive to rain and you are more flexible when it comes to modifications and repair. A fully equipped 28" bike with electric light (Elephant brand), carrier, stand, bell, pump, tires (Double Coin) cost Rp 216.000 in 1994 (Sulawesi kampungs and Surabaya same price). Weight is 25 kg. Check that all screws and spokes are tight and that brakes are working. You might want a saddle better than standard. If you want to fit gears at home, you have to replace the whole rear wheel. Don't throw it away, in 5 years time you will need the tire and tube for the front wheel. Such a bike is convenient for in-town shopping but don't try to take it on your next tour across Sumatera. Far too heavy. 2) A low-end mountainbike is fairly cheap. You can get a strong 24" "Mustang" for Rp 150.000, no gears. Better go for a 24" "Federal", Shimano-gears, at Rp 195.000. 26" Mountainbikes are not popular because they are too big for most Indonesian people. In larger cities they are available. A high-class foreign product is often cheaper in Germany (or your home country). Summer 1995, Sumatera (SUMUT, ACEH) The bike: --------- Last year I've learned that modern rubbish doesn't last. This time I bring a 40-year-old gents bike, solid German steel. What lasted 40 years, won't break down within the next month. With 26" wheels, I assume that I can get spare tires in Indonesia. I buy new tires and add a Fichtel und Sachs 3-speed brake hub like I brought one to Vietnam. Finally, I fit a state-of-the-art halogen light. Totals 18 kg. It is an old bike and I know it. I expect some standard problems, so I bring a good selection of tools and spares. My rucksack weighs 9 kg, plus 1 kg for the camera. Medan: ------ I visit friends but during the day, I do some shopping on my own. For a cyclist, Medan is hell. I need 3 days to find my way around. Traffic is fast and chaotic, a most hostile combination. The dirty smoke from the exhausts, the dust, the noise and the recklessness of some drivers destroy all my sympathy for that city. If you have to cycle in Medan, take no risk and don't do it too often. Good news: Medan's roads have really improved over last year. Makes cycling and driving a lot safer. In Medan, I get my rear lamp pinched. It was a stupid snap-on design, it wouldn't have been stolen if secured with a screw. Not a big deal, but not so easy to find a replacement. Finding bike-parts in Medan (and other places all over Indonesia) is not so easy. I go into a shop, ask: Do you have xx ? No, not have. Where can I find xx ? Don't know. So I try shop after shop. The shop that sells what I want is usually closed. Easy to spend a whole day. Taman Negara Leuser: -------------------- I start out from Kabanjahe. Road is steadily rising to Ketambe. Stay overnight in PHPA huts. Nice and clean place, like the people, no electricity but daily radio contact with other PHPA and police posts. Next day, walk to Air Panas with other travellers. Entry to park is Rp1000. I don't have photocopies of passport, the guy says "bring it 2morrow". We can't find the springs. Track washed away or map error. Seen one gibbon, got bitten by pacat, caught in rain and exhausted. Not my day... but a very relaxing night by Sungai Alas under the sounds of the forest. Next day, everyone forgot the photocopy and I leave. From Ketambe to Blankejeren, road gets steeper. 3-speed not enough. Have to push my bike frequently. Rain starts. Have to go through pools of water without knowing how deep they are. I go slow. No problems. A farmer comes by in a 4WD and feeds me bananas ! I wonder to what extend I've become an animal. In Blankejeren, I meet a Kirab Remaja group. They are youths, all dressed in national colours, travelling different parts of Indonesia to show how nice they can all live together. TV, police and radio amateurs (ORARI) are also present. These people come to you and say: Hi, I'm Mohammed from Java. Who are you ? Nice to meet you, bye. Well, everyone feels pretty stupid. I enjoy the Gayo dance performance. Really funny. Lots of guides around, in Blankejeren. They all want to take me on a trekking tour. I don't want to go without my bike, so I finally get my rest from the guys. Notes on the hotel's black boards say, you don't need a guide to the Tobacco Hut. Anyway, it's nothing special. Hotel Rahmat is a good and cheap place to stay. Mr Usman is really friendly (seemed overfriendly to me, but is ok). The road from Blankejeren to Takengon is tough, with the worst part right south of Ise-Ise (gravel and sand). Most of the rest is asphalt. I'm pushing my bike up most of the time. Downhill is so fast, that my rear brake runs very hot and spits grease. Again and again, I have stop so that the hub can cool off. Somewhere between Gudang and Ise-Ise, I have the most thrilling encounter of my life: Two big cats: Just past 2 pm, I am going uphill, slowly go around a bend and suddenly I see a panther looking for food or water by the side of the road. I stop. It is black and beautiful with a white nose. I'm not afraid. When I ring my bell, the animal roars like I have never heard it before in a zoo and runs up the hill, then is gone. I move on. I get the idea that I'm a big fool, travelling here alone. And then a terrible fear grows in me. At almost 3 pm, something roars at me out of the forest from the right. I'm frightened. I ring my bell and that thing roars again. I move on but I'm quite sure that this one will finish me off. A rustle from the forest follows me. I'm very angry about my own stupidness. The rustle stays with me. I can't see the beast but it is definitely interested in continental food. I roar as loud as I can, twice. Then the forest is perfectly quiet, no tiger, no rustling. I've almost been frightened to death. I can only move on. The road is steep and I'm slow. I recognize how foolish it was to bring such a junky bike. A lightweight mountainbike could almost double my speed in this region. At almost 4 pm, I reach the descending slope going down to Ise-Ise. I often use my bell in order to frighten away nasty creatures before I see them. I try to make speed because rain is coming. On a steep and stony road, I lose control of the bike and tumble. Fortunately, just some bruises and scratches, my legs and knees still strong. My bike has suffered no damage at all. I'm really surprised and get rolling again. Two more bends and I see lots of rubbish by the side of the road. Glad to be back to civilization. Around the next corner is Ise-Ise. The first person I meet stares at me with an open mouth. I look dirty, torn, bleeding and very much frightened. I ask where I can wash my wounds and the old woman points down to the river. My knees have become soft because of fear and I have difficulties going down the slippery path. Having treated my wounds, I sit down with military and villagers who want to hear my story. I'm so glad that I speak some Bahasa, because without it I could not have told what happened to me and I might have died of fear. Well, the guys let me know that I've been very lucky, there's quite a death toll due to wild animals. These animals usually don't come to the road unless they are very hungry. Due to exploitation of the forest, they cannot find enough food and hope for something to come along on the road. The guys from the pos militer tell me there'd even be 2 lions + one baby around (you think that's true ?), though I can hardly see them because they come from behind ! The military's job is to shoot the beasts. I think you should put a warning in the LP, because those who get eaten by tigers cannot tell you about it any more. Again and again, tourists will be cycling and hiking that road from Blankejeren to Ise-Ise. The Blankejeren guides tell them no problem, it's great if you meet a tiger. It's an experience of a lifetime. But what do you do if it is really there ? Take a photo ? Run ? The pos militer know about the tigers and the death toll. Any advise from the LP team how to handle tigers, bears, lions and elephants on the road / in the forest ? Local guides are really incompetent in such matters. They say: "Run away". Any advise on how to drive snakes off the road ? Throwing sticks and stones never helped. I have a sleepless night. The sounds of the forest make me afraid. I wished, there was someone to sleep with me. Next day, I take the bus to Takengon. Takengon: --------- Batang Ruang (dekat bioscop) is still the best place. I've checked all the others. I have two more sleepless nights and I fall ill. I wonder if my fear could seriously damage my body. I often seek the company of other travellers and tell them about my experience. Many say that they would love to see a tiger and I had been very lucky to get this chance. I come to the conclusion that god just wanted to do me a favour and I really cannot complain, I'm still in one piece. The fourth night I'm better. Takengon has no real tourist information but they might send you to a run-down house on a hill near the market. This is the home of some guides. You don't have to go there, the guides will seek tourists at the hotels and restaurants. You cannot get maps from them, they just tell you: You can't go alone, need to hire a guide. I asked for the way to the waterfall, the caves, and the answer was: "We can go tomorrow. Ok ? I wanted to know where to hire a boat and the guy answered: Rp 30.000 ok ? I wonder how useful these guys can be when you actually hire one. I think you could improve the situation by giving more info in the LP. The area around Laut Tawar is definitely worth some pages: Include a map of the area , a better description of the way to the hot baths (take bus to Kg. Simpang Balik on the road to Bireuen: Nice fruit stands, altogether 4 pools, 2 for women, no need to pay entry if you come in on the track over the hill that starts in the village), Gunug Telong, G.Tetek and the cave and waterfall near the lake. The cave on the southern bank of the lake has been developed into a picnic place. Rp500 entry, you can go down to a jetty and have your picnic. If you follow the main road around the first bend after the main entrance, you will find a narrow track leading down. Here you can enter for free. It is a good place to swim without being caught in seaweed. To enter the cave itself costs another Rp500, they have electricity inside and it is very small, really not worth a look. A guide told me that years ago, you could walk inside for 2 days, but now the stalagmites have grown and block the passage. The road around the lake is ok for cycling, but the northern part (17km) is just sand and stones (though really wide). There's logging in this area. Frequently, heavy trucks pass by and leave a cyclist in a cloud of dust. After 5 pm there is less traffic. Food in Takengon is average. Nothing to get excited about - well, maybe the fruits. While I was in Takengon, most of the tourists where more or less sick. Don't know why. Heard of any problem with the water ? Takengon to Bireuen is nice for cycling but hilly. Take one full day for the 100 km. On the road is a nice restaurant in the middle of a lake. Good food there. When coming from Takengon, have your 2nd breakfast there. Nothing special in Bireuen, cheapest accommodation Rp 5000, dirty. Rp 8000 not much better. Going up to Banda Aceh (often called "Banda") by bus. Dangerous road due to fast traffic, seen 2 nasty accidents. PMTOH is the bus company with the best reputation. Banda Aceh: ----------- Accommodation starting from Rp 10.000, but all lousy. Seen a good double for 17.000 (fan). Several Plazas for shopping. Mosque is boring from inside. Picture-cards NOT available in Banda Aceh ! Buy in Medan or Danau Toba ! Food not very special but better then in most other places of Aceh. Ferry to Sabang / P.Weh sells special tickets for bikes. When you buy snacks from the poor kids at the harbour, don't bargain too hard. They don't deserve it. Pulau Weh: ---------- From Balohan Ferry Station on Pulau Weh there is no direct transport to Iboih or Gapang. All via Sabang. There is probably no direct road across the hills. If you don't want to spent your first night in Sabang, find out when the last bemo to your destination departs. Some people might tell you, that you have to spend your first night on Weh at a Sabang hotel (a rule to bring some tourist money to Sabang) but often Bemo drivers don't care about it. Simple picture-cards are available from Stingray diving center in Sabang or Iboih. Food in Sabang is not bad, there's an excellent Chinese restaurant (starting from Rp 6000 !). Best to buy some fruits in Sabang, at Pantai Gapang or Iboih you might not have much choice. Transport on P.Weh is expensive, Bemo from Sabang to Iboih Rp 2000. Gas prices are very high. Roads are too steep for many cyclists (approx. 15%). The most popular Hotel in Sabang is Pulau Jaya. Pantai Gapang, Pulau Jaya Bungalows: This is a quite place, the long, clean beach is hardly populated, management is ok but most of all it is the guests who make it a good or bad place. Basic huts start from Rp5000. Food can be really excellent to average, depending very much on the availability of fresh fish. In the evening, all guests have dinner together, family style. It is just enough for everyone, usually nothing left. So don't be late. If you supply extra goodies to the kitchen, it will lift the quality of the dinner. Iboih: The tourist beach is not so clean, pretty crowded and short. The whole place feels a bit cramped and noisy. In Iboih you can get cold drinks (they have electricity) and a good variety of food. They are well adapted to western tourists. There is a diving school (Stingray Diving Center), this year they charge US$250 for the 5-day course, Dutch teacher. A pretty good (introductory) price. The compressor of the diving school can be disturbing. Pulau Rubiah is 150m from Iboih. You can go by boat (Rp 10.000 to and fro, can carry a lot of people), or just swim. There's a slight current to the north. Be careful, when you get too close to the southern tip of Rubiah. There, a real strong current goes just the opposite direction and will carry you around the tip so you get ashore in the middle of nowhere. Happened to me. Pretty frightening. Rubiah is a nice little island with paved (!) footpaths around and across the island. There is a dilapidated watch-tower, you can go up if you're not too heavy. Some broken-down stone houses can be found near the tower and beaches are all around the island. Near the harbour, there are public toilets and the houses of residents. Each visitor to the island has to pay Rp500. Swimmers don't have to pay. A few meters south of the harbour is a nice coral for snorkelling. Amongst the many colorful fish you'll find tigerfish that will try to get a bite out of you. A nuisance but not dangerous. West Coast Sumatera: -------------------- From P.Weh, I go down the west coast to Calang (via Banda Aceh). The road through the mountains is very scenic. It is worth cycling. Steady up and steady down. I personally hopped on a bus, other cyclists did the trip by bike. Camp Europa = Daud Jerman = Dieter and Nurma = Dieter's Place is 14 km north of Calang. The bus drivers know where to drop you off. Tell them: Saya / kami mau turun di tempat DAUD JERMAN. A lot of good and bad things have been said about Dieter Hess. Generally, German-speaking folks talk better of him than non-German-speaking ones (maybe because his English is not so good). Local people don't like him at all. Some explanation is needed to understand the situation: A lot of the bad things being said result from envy. A number of similar camps were built around Dieter's place. Though competitors poisoned Dieter's water and tried to burn down huts, they have never been very successful and all but one of their camps can be seen abandoned. True, Dieter doesn't accept Indonesian people in his camp. There is the whole west coast if you want beaches to swim in your clothes. Spare Dieter's place. With locals inside, there will always be problems with the Muslim people. Such problems can lead to Dieter and his family being killed and the whole place being looted and burned down in the name of Allah. I spend two nights at Daud Jerman. Management is efficient, no overhead of manpower hanging around like in many other places. I find the food as German as it can be and there is always enough (a very nice change when you have been travelling in Aceh for several weeks). Four meals per day, and we get home-baked bread and cake ! The huts are clean and well-maintained, electricity is reliable and the water is clean. Prices starting from Rp 15.000 are not high when you consider what value you get (4 high-quality meals are included). The place is very relaxed and if you expect an action-packed jungle camp, you better move on. At Daud Jerman, you can recover from whatever happened to you, read books from home, meet other tourists, walk a bit in the forest, sunbathe at the beach or enjoy the surf. When it is feeding-time, Nurma rings the big bell and calls everyone to the table. I enjoy these days, read a bit, meet nice tourists, talk German again and practice my Indonesian with one of the kids. The only problem was a shortage of liquor for the evenings. Though I found a shop selling tuak, the guy told me there'd be too many problems, I can't have it. One more thing about pushbikes: One of the guys borrowed my bike and went for cigarettes. On the road, he saw rare birds that he could not find on a 1-day jungle trek. With a bike, you are quiet and fast. Animals don't hear you coming and you can get a glimpse at very shy creatures. From Dieter to Meulaboh I go by bike. Most of it flat country, fast travel. The road through the western end of Taman Negara Leuser is very straight. The receptionist of Pulau Jaya / Sabang has warned me of dangerous bears in this area. Do you think this is possible ? I see no bear when I travel there. My next stop is Tapaktuan, I take a bus from Meulaboh. The road is in good condition. I stay at Losmen Jambu, it's ok. Hotel Panorama is better; you get what you pay for. 7 kilometers south of Tapaktuan, I visit a waterfall. The first kampung south of Tapaktuan, branch left just before the Mosque. I cannot go up that waterfall because of heavy rain. Tapaktuan to Sidikalang I go by bike. By sundown, I arrive in Glombang on "Simpang Kiri" River. Further into the National Park, this River is called "Alas". There are many crocodiles in the river, the people say. In Glombang I take a bus to Sidikalang (it goes via Singkil). Very hilly road, it is night and I can't see much. Tanah Batak / Danau Toba: ------------------------- Sidikalang to Tele (west of P.Samosir, overlooking Danau Toba) I cycle again. Uphill all the time, not too steep. Batak children throw stones and shout "Horas" instead of "Hello Mister". I like that (not the stones). No losmen in Tele, but I want to stay overnight and see the sun rise over Danau Toba next morning. There's a photo-spot at the north-western end of Tele (that spot where all the tourists get off the bus and take their photos of Danau Toba) I ask a man if I can stay in his house. He's a policeman and for Rp 5000, I can stay. The house has a balcony with a nice view over the lake. I take a night picture of the lake (need tripod), that turns out really nice and I get my sunrise next morning. Early morning, down to Air Panas, Pangururan. Very scenic road in good condition. The road branching off to the hot springs has much improved over my last visit in 1992. Narrow, but good asphalt today. Cycling around northern Samosir is smooth. On my way to Simanindo, I see a pyramid, large brown thing with a Batak-roofed entrance and a temple (?) on the top. Looks like a huge ant-hill. I can't find out what it is. You know ? In Simanindo, a man offers me one night in a Batak house at Rp3000. I don't accept straightaway and return later but can't find him any more. I stay at that one and only restaurant / homestay in Simanindo (forgot the name), Rp4000. Mandi is Danau Toba. The lake looks clean and there are many fish to be seen. Next morning, I take the 9:00 am boat from Simanindo harbour to Haranggaol. It only goes on Mondays, carries all the villagers to the market. My bike, too. Haranggaol looks a nice and sleepy village, though the market is very vivid. Mostly selling basic things. I buy fruits and cake to take along. There are some restaurants around, not bad. The road up to Simpang Haranggaol is winding and steadily rising, eat well before you tackle it. There is a shelter / sightseeing point when you are almost up to highland level. The view over Danau Toba is amazing, if no mist coming up from the lake. The weather can change suddenly. I am caught in heavy rain and then continue cycling in dense mist for some kilometers. Simpang Haranggaol is a little village high above Danau Toba. There's a crossroad. I go north to Merek (this stretch is almost flat), from there to Air Terjun Sipiso-Piso (entry Rp400). Beautiful waterfall, from highland down to lake level in one single fall. You can hear bangs and thunder from the falling water that hits the rocks on the bottom. If not misty, perfect for photos. There's an expensive-looking restaurant overlooking Danau Toba and you'll of course find several souvenir shops and a fruit & drink warung. Stairs have been built so that you can easily reach the bottom of the waterfall. Down there are some huts, probably food for sale on Sundays but none there when I came at 4pm. Takes 1 hour to go down and return. It is worth the photos. Bring a towel, even if you do not intend to take a bath. Water is in the air. Having returned from Sipiso-Piso to Merek, I continue to Kabanjahe. Highland scenery, water buffalos, fields. Quiet area. In Kabanjahe, it gets busy and the road to Berastagi is really not nice to cycle, especially not at night. Too many cars. Berastagi: ---------- I stay overnight in Wisma Sibayak, Rp 3000 for a dorm bed. Clean with many Westerners around. A good choice of food, local and western dishes (ada yoghurt !). A noisy movie is on TV and I retreat to a quiet corner, don't want to meet any of these enthusiastic bule who will go and climb a mountain tomorrow. My holiday is almost over and I'm really tired. After one night's rest, I get me a pizza at the (Chinese) Restoran Eropa. It takes long to make, tastes strange but somehow exciting. The dough is not crispy but fluffy. Try the other dishes, interesting choice of food they offer. The money-changer in Berastagi offers good rates. Souvenirs are good quality but prices seem high to me. I try to find a blowpipe but they are not allowed to sell weapons... Back to Medan: -------------- To Medan I take a bus, put my bike on top. I meet a very friendly Batak girl, we have a chat in English. Downhill, there's a problem with the brakes of the bus (getting hot, we stop at a car wash and cool with water). Eventually, we arrive at Pinang Baris bus station. Immediately, I'm addressed by people who ask me where I wonna go. I have my own transport (bike), so no business for them. Well, they offer to guide me out the bus station for only Rp 5000. This is just too cheeky and it gets me really angry. I tell them that I prever to go alone but they wouldn't leave. I don't like shouting, so I grab one of the guys by his neck. When I release the strangle, all three look at me in a very strange way and move away without a word. Back to Medan streets. Asking rickshaw drivers (real nice guys, if you have your own bike) for the way, I soon get to my friend's house. Why not enter some more street names into the Medan map ? My last days in Indonesia are shopping days. I heard several tourists complain that there's nothing to buy in Medan. It is possible to get almost anything but one has to know where. It is the Chinese people who know best about prices and places. Many of them love to talk about money things (not few of them overdo it). Ask them. I buy high-quality Diesel T-shirts (Rp 10.400), jeans (Rp 30k to 80k), popular brand: Giordano, shirts, underwear, ... everything just 20..30% what I pay in Germany. I buy the latest Asian music, not available at home. International music is also cheap, but only on cassette tape, CDs cost at least as much as in the USA. Food I buy emping manis, dodol, krupuk, kue lapis, abon, ginger candy... why don't you print a list of all tasty things in the LP ? Too many travellers are afraid to try something that's not mentioned in the book... Medicine: In Indonesia, I found Resochine but no Paludrine, Lariam, Halfan. Do you know if and where these Malaria drugs can be bought in Indonesia ? I try not to buy them in Germany because they cost about 10 times as much as in Singapore. The Bahasa Indonesia Section of the May'95 guidebook telephone = telpon, telepon (old) number = nomor (nombor is wrong) aeroplane = pesawat (more popular), kapal terbang (well-understood) motorcycle = Honda, sepeda motor (not common) stop = berhenti, but if you want to stop your bus, shout: Kiri, kiri ! I'm sick = saya sakit but also: my finger hurts = jariku sakit Thief ! = Maling, maling ! (Pencuri is not common) Words of Bahasa Indonesia are easy to learn but the difficulty of the language is in the way they express things. It is not what we'd expect. It is best to learn full sentences, and complete conversations. Have you had lunch ? - Already. Do you want this ? - Want. There are meanings that simply won't translate the way you expect them to: What do you think is "Lion King" in Bahasa Indonesia ? I had this conversation (in Bahasa): There are leeches. - No, there are no leeches. There are SMALL leeches. Another problem is dialects and abbreviations. Learning the language, you'll have a lot to laugh ! eof