Narathiwat / Yala / Kelantan / Perak, Apr.99 Summary of a quick mountainbike-tour around the South: I started in Narathiwat (Thailand), continued to Yala, south to Betong, across the border into Malaysia, there east to Gerik / Tasik Temengor, further to Jeli, again south to Dabong, from there further to Gua Musang (via Pasir Linggi). There I put my bike on a northbound train to Tumpat, from where I crossed the border back into Thailand. End was Narathiwat. The details: Fr., 9.Apr.99 Flight BKK to Narathiwat: B 2605 one way With a mountainbike, you can reach a clean, beautiful beach only 15 minutes after you leave Narathiwat Airport towards the South. Narathiwat: Cathay Hotel (275 Pupha Pakdee Road) has large double rooms with attached bathroom (with shower) for B150. It's slightly dirty but OK. The host is an old man speaking English. He is overfriendly and extra-accurate, he was a bit in my way. The check-in took 25 minutes. From Narathiwat to Yala it is 126km by the route that follows more or less along the railway. It is a slightly hilly and very green route, favoured by local bikers. Sa., Yala: - People in Yala appear very friendly to me. Also they seem to be a bit brighter than elsewhere in Thailand. Many can speak Malay. - Moslem as well as Indian food is available, Chinese and Thai, of course, too. - Taxis are typically ancient Mercedes cars (D220, D300). - The Shanghai Hotel is OK for B80 / single / fan / shared bathroom outside. Several less beautiful prostitutes are on standby to satisfy guests' needs. - Phrubakoi Park is a nice spot to relax but I hain't seen any floating restaurants that you mention in the LP. - Wat Naa Tham is impressive and if you walk along outside (right side), you'll reach an entrance to a huge network of caves. In there is electricity but in several of the more remote arms of the cave the light has failed and is not repaired. You can spend quite some time inside there. - Tham Silpa I first didn't find, not many people go there. I met two kids who guided me in. The stairs that lead up are overgrown with green. The gate to the cave is not locked though people close it. Inside there are a few drawings on the wall. On the far end there seems to be a way to continue further in but one has to climb through a big sinkhole and my guides said it wasn't possible to go. On the outside we climbed higher and reached a small chamber and that was it. Not so exciting. - Thara Seafood Restaurant is good and moderately priced, as you say. They charge per kg. It was packed with people, when I was there. Su./Mo., Bang Lang Reservoir: - Above Bang Lang Dam is a viewpoint with a few shelters and foodstalls. - Counterclockwise around the lake (should leave your passport with a security post of the electricity company, but I didn't and they didn't insist), you reach several guesthouses. These clusters of appartements belong to the electricity company and were initially intended to house their employees. Now many moved to the city of Yala and the appartements are rented out to (mostly local) tourists. Official prices start around B200 / night. They are well-maintained. Up there is also a restaurant (not bad, but they always gave me what I didn't order) and a pool. Inside the restaurant is the reception that takes care of renting out accommodation. Typically, people book the accomodation in advance but I just walked in after nightfall, and bargained one appartment for as little as B100 / night. - Clockwise around the lake are several smaller villages. The road is hilly and the asphalt is sometimes broken, the area very scenic, lots of green growing beneath. The whole area is a bit misty. Many people there are Moslems and they are pretty friendly, also some speak Malay. On that road I was moving slower than expected and when it got dark and rainy, people invited me to spend the night in their house (which I accepted). - At the end of the road (approx 100km from Yala) is a forest department post. A few km before, there is a military post. Trips to a place called Bala Hala are possible, there is a road (branches off between Military Post and Forest Department Post). However, when I was there, the road was partly flooded and I would have needed a boat from the military post (which is possible). Bala Hala is said to have many wild animals and also Orang Asli people. I heard there'd be a camping ground. Locals told me they don't like the idea of staying there overnight with all the wild animals. Tu., Bang Lang Dam to Betong It's 120km cycling. Betong is a pretty nasty sex-tourism place with vivid nightlife, lots of Karaoke bars and that sort of hotel. The best budget hotel I found was the Betong Hotel (B120 single, fan, with bathroom), but it is not well-known amongst locals. Many directed me to the Sri Betong Hotel which is pretty much high-class. The Betong Hotel is not too far from a Mosque. When I realized this, I asked for a room out the back to avoid the noise from the loudspeakers. Fa Un Rong Hotel is also affordable, it is right in the center of town, means noisy. And dirty. In Betong, many prices are in Ringits. You want to pay Baht, multiply by 10. Apart from the nightlife, there is not too much to do in Betong. Shopping for Malay articles is cheaper in Malaysisa. We., Betong to Tasik Temengor (110km) Don't forget to adjust the time on your clock when you enter Malaysia. Otherwise, you will miss all your busses, trains, planes, boats by 1 hour ! My bit of luggage was thoroughly checked at the border by Malaysian police. Maybe they suspected me to carry drugs. Not far from the border, police stopped me another two times and asked the usual questions. The English language skills of the Malaysians were brilliant compared to the Thai. I noticed that Malaysian vehicles are often rather old though in a better shape than many newer, Thai vehicles. Malaysian drivers appeared more considerate (though not slower) to me. In Malaysia, there are fewer gas stations and restaurants by the road, for a mountainbiker it makes sense to carry a water bottle and a bit of food. In the area of Tasik Temengor are 3 resorts. Two of them are on the shore of the lake, one is on an island. The ones on the shore (either side of the bridge) are currently being destroyed by rising water. People said there was a problem with the dam. In one place they refused to take tourists at all, the other place looked so unsafe that I did not want to stay there. The resort on the island is the most expensive one, but I haven't seen it and don't know about its condition. Asked if there were any wild animals, a restaurant owner told me prowdly, that just the night before there was an accident between an elephant and a truck. I personally spend the night on a logging / towing ship with a group of loggers. Later, when terrible rain started and elephants could be heard, I was glad not to stay in a sinking resort, but to have a swimming hotel, with a solid roof, and out of the elephants' reach. I did not see any Orang Asli in the area of the lake, however, they are there and live on less accessible shores. Th, Tasik Temengor to Jeli (90km) There is a tough mountain on the way, reaches 1050m over sea level. It was 3h up and 2h down. Very scenic. A few small waterfalls, viewpoints and mosques / rest areas are along the road. At night, there are said to be elephants. Orang Asli live in the area. The road is popular amongst local mountainbikers. The slopes that face the road are terraced or covered by nets to avoid erosion and landslide. Feel like climbing a mountain ? There are stairs up these slopes !! Jeli: Money and accommodation in Jeli can be a bit of a problem. There is no ATM. Huts at the Tenaga Nasional Resort (electricity company, a bit out of the town center) start at R75 (they don't accept credit cards). In town is an older government guesthouse for R40 per room. I personally chose a taxi to Tanah Merah (cost R19, 40 minutes drive). Tanah Merah: Thanah Merah's budget hotel is "Tanah Merah Hotel", double, fan, outside bathroom, R19. I makes sense to bring mosquito coils. On the outskirts of Tanah Merah is the Tanah Merah Resort, starting at R42. There are several ATMs in town. Fr., Jeli to Jelawang (50km) Straightforward cycling past oil palm plantages, mostly flat. Jelawang: In Jelawang, there are two places to stay: 1) Perdana Stong Hill Resort (bottom of the waterfall). This place is 5 years old. Looks neat. Chalets: Standard: R80, Superior R106, Deluxe, R133 Dormitory: Single bed R30, One out of a double decker bed R25 Camp site: R4 / Person, rental for a 2-3 person dome tent is R15 (you can also bring your own tent) I recommend that you take a dormitory bed, can bargain down to R20. Chances are high that you are the only one in there, so you get a huge room for yourself. Camping is something you may not enjoy so much in this place. There's a lot of rain in Jelawang. The resort has an OK restaurant, prices double of what you pay at a roadside stall, still not so bad. They also have a nice car park, a prayer room, even a photocopier ! The atmosphere is very jungle-ish and sure no loudspeakers will wake you up in the morning. They can also organise trips to Orang Asli villages, Caves, Rafting, Mountain Climbing (Gunung Stong and G.Ayam). At least their color leavlet and the receptionist say so. Haven't tried any of their tours. 2) Baha's Camp (on top of the waterfall) Baha's camp can be reached by a good 1h climb along the waterpipe, starting from Perdana Stong Hill Resort. It can also be reached by a longer, less steep track from a bit further North, other side of the river. You have to wade across one or two streams, that way. Prices are said to be around R10 for a very basic hut. There's not much food up there, it's just what someone brings up, and it could be that you have to buy some meals with your hut. Ask details at shops in Jelawang. Baha and his wife live in Jelawang, but he often stays overnight at the camp. Baha's Camp is the better choice for adventureous people who can take a bit of a climb. If you have a lot of stuff, you may want to leave some of it in a shop in Jelawang or at the Perdana Stong Hill Resort, where you could also park your mountainbike. Sa, Jelawang to Pasir Linggi (recommended for mountainbikers, 77km) Dabong: Sleepy Dabong is 5 km from Jelawang, across a river. There is a ferry boat that can take small motorcycles, but cars can't cross there. The last boat crosses at 6:30 pm (this is where I realised that there is 1 hour difference between Thai and Malaysian time). If you happen to get stuck there, you may want to stay at the government guesthouse. Ask around until you find the guy with the key to the guesthouse. Don't know the prices. Everytime I come to Dabong, I find that children are relatively rude in this village. Gua Ikan: If you cross over the railroad tracks and follow that road about 5km to the South, you will reach Gua Ikan. Now they even put a proper sign on the road to tell you where you have to branch off. On the sign it says "Taman Rekreasi", but don't expect too much. That place consists of a few dilapidated and overgrown huts, an old bridge, overgrown tracks. And you'll always find someone washing his motorbike in the stream that runs from the cave. If you follow that stream into the cave, you reach the back exit. Further on, there is the mainroad. From the back exit, you can climb up into the cave. You should take at least a few local kids and two flashlights with you, it is a bit tricky. And if you're too fat, you can't get thru to the top. Other caves are in that area, have a flashlight and find some local people to guide you. Further along, the road swings East and deteriorates (broken asphalt). The terrain goes hilly. The scenery is a mixture of hilly forest and oil palm plantages. There is very little traffic, it's a good mountainbike road. Eventually, you'll hit road No.8. If you are the adventureous type, you could just cross the No.8 where you'll find a wide dirt road and a very unobvious sign indicating that there are some Orang Asli villages in that direction. This road is mostly used by logging companies. At night, it is also used by wild pigs. It turns South-East and is hilly / mountaineous, consists of soil, sand, stone. Great biking ground. Go straight along the main track, pass several huts used by woodworkers, until you reach a Y-junction with a bad wooden bridge leading over a stream. Cross over the bridge and turn left, then straight again. The road is a bit narrower there (still OK for a small 4WD). About 20km from the No.8, you'll hit a place called Pasir Linggi (refer to GPS coordinates, the soccer field). If on the way people tell you that you can or should not go that way, you would best ignore them. Don't ignore the wild pigs. Pasir Linggi: This is a cluster of Orang Asli villages. The people appeared bright, funny and warm. They speak virtually no English. They welcome travellers, because they themselves are often travelling between their villages. In Pasir Linggi, people receive government school education, electricity is just being installed, they eat Malay food, sometimes wear clothes, play soccer and have been converted to Islam. I stayed there overnight. Orang Asli know well about the roads and tracks in the area, they gave me a very accurate description of my next-day route. They are real experts. Su, Pasir Linggi to Gua Musang: The track continued as my hosts had said. Later it widened and eventually turned into an asphalt road. Several hills later, I was back on No.8, 40km from Gua Musang. Gua Musang: A small though busy town with ATMs and many Chinese people. It's a bit wild-west style. Many 4WDs and everything you may need on your plantage. Opposite the railway station is Gua Musang. If you climb up to the mouth, you can walk thru the cave and out the backdoor, there climb the rock and get a nice view of the surrounding area. No need for a lamp, only a few (safe) steps in the cave are in complete darkness until you see the light from the rear. A bit out of the town center (beyond the bus station) is a small lake with a restaurant beside, also some rental boats for cruising around the lake. The place lacks maintenance and tree cover. Best budget hotel was the Hotel Alishan (No.6 Jalan Besar), only a few meters from the railway station. R12 for a double with fan and outside bathroom. Just next door is a similar hotel. The Chinese restaurant near Hotel Alishan (same side of the road, away from railway station) has a good beer collection. Train from Gua Musang to Tumpat (=Northern terminus of the Malaysian railway line) did not want to take me because of my bike, but after some discussion they let the conductor decide if it was OK. When the train came in, the man had no objection, only I had to disassemble the bike a bit so it fit into one of the luggage corners. Malaysians are already very civilized, they seem to have a bit of a problem with non-standard situations. There was a little incident at Gua Musang railway station: A western traveller on the train reported that he had something stolen. Security forces on the train identified a Malay thief (not sure if he was the right guy), dragged him out to the platform and accused him there in front of all the people. He did not have anything that belonged to the traveller, nevertheless they handed him over to Gua Musang police. Both security and police made a good show of shouting and pushing the poor guy around but actually they took very well care not to injure him (unlike Indonesian police). The traveller was probably the guy who felt most miserable. Tak Bai border crossing: This is a sleepy border crossing near the sea. A ferry carries people and vehicles across the Golok river (B6 per person). On the Thai side, there are lot's of sex-service oriented small hotels. The immigration is extremely unobvious, I missed it and turned back after 3km. This is the place to enter Thailand unchecked and without Visa. The officials at Tak Bai Immigration spoke a terrible English and claimed that my business visa had expired which was not the case. When crossing from Malaysia to Thailand, you will notice a number of infavourable changes: Bisquits: Malaysia: The writing on the pack says that they taste nice, which is usually correct. Thailand: Are already cracked inside the pack or crack as you try to open the pack. The bits and pieces that you get are too sweet. Language: Malaysia: Many people speak English Thailand: Many people believe they speak English and are terribly disappointed when your English is not the sort of English they can understand. You can communicate if you speak English with Thai word order and Thai words. Common questions that the Thai ask are: You, Love You, You Name, You Go, You Want. An acceptable answer is Thank You. Roads: Malaysia: Quite OK Thailand: Some patches are excellent but most people prefer a light truck to a small car Traffic: Malaysia: People obey traffic rules if police is around Thailand: Police does not obey traffic rules Shopping: Malaysia: Walk into a shop and expect to be asked what you want. Thailand: Go near a shop, hear someone shout "Falang !" and find all shop assistants gone. You may want to take a look behind the counter, so that a face would come up and ask "Allayah ?". If you don't speak Thai the answer is always "No". International Travel: Malaysians come to Thailand because of women and whiskey Thai "beautiful women" come to Malaysia basically for Ringgits Chinese do the border trade and carry away most of the Ringgits Food: Malaysia: Cook is proud when you enjoy his food Thailand: They already have KFC. You can feel proud if you manage to read the menu Radio / TV: Malaysia: Entertaining Thailand: Great to keep you awake on a night bus Bicycle repairs: Malaysia: Shop can surely do it, but not now. They watch you when you do it yourself. Thailand: Claim that it cannot be done and laugh when you do it yourself. One restaurant owner in Malaysia smiled when he presented me the bill: What do you get in Thailand for this little money ? Really, food in Malaysia is cheaper than in Thailand. R1.50 can buy you a meal. Even bicycle tires I found to be cheaper and a lot better in Malaysia. Also see the attached Excel file with GPS - recorded locations. Regards, Martin