February 2001
Dear Editor,
just past weekend I drove over to Ayutthaya (that is Thailand). Compiled
some info:

There is a "Floating Market" in Ayutthaya. It's operated by Tesco / Lotus
and is fully airconditioned ;-)
Enter Lotus and look for the foodcourt on the ground floor. Some of the
stalls are actually traditional boats, floating on a nicely-arranged
artificial lake. In the same area, small shops sell Thai handicraft. Looks
touristy, but haven't seen any tourists there. It costs a bit more than the
other food court and the selection of food is a bit better.
Find it just west off the Highway from Bangkok. It is advertised on signs,
and amongst my GPS waypoints (LOTUS1).

Currently it's high tourist season in Ayutthaya. A lot of Japanese, at this
time. It reflects in increased prices for hotels. Prices of most guesthouses
remain stable.

Cathay Hotel: B200 fan, B400 air

U Thong Hotel: More than Cathay, asking price was B400 for a fan room, I bet
that is not the real price.

New B.J. GH: B120 single fan, B150 double fan, very popular amongst
travellers and was full. Let me say that every time I go there, the guests
are particularly nice.

P.S. Guesthouse (P.S. Phatsaporn GH) moved pretty often, now in 23/1
Juggrapat Rd, Tel.035-242394
It says "by English Teacher" but I'd rather learn my English elsewhere. The
lady is very nice but  involves pretty much in every little thing you do or
don't do. The place was jammed with people and she had turned a next-door
shophouse into a dormitory. Beyond that, camping on the lawn was possible.
T'was like a refugee-camp feel. It's around the corner after New B.J., then
follow the signs for about 500m. GPS waypoint "PSGH".
Rates are: B80 dorm fan, B100 single fan, B150 double fan = bungalow, B250
double aircon. Hint: The bungalows are rather cool, need no aircon. I stayed
at the dorm: Simple, mostly clean, absolutely OK.

Thongchai GH has unspecial and semi-clean bungalows. B200 double fan, B400
air fan. Both aircon and fan rooms look the same and are too expensive for
what it is. Because of this,  the place is unlikely to be full.

Note that there's a P.O.GH somewhere, haven't checked it.

On the northern side of Ayutthaya, just on the northern bank of the river,
somewhere around Wat Pha Meru, is a canoe rental. They rent out heavy fiberglass
kayaks (no canoes !). GPS waypoint "CANOE". Now it is hard to find a person there,
the shop seems to close down. It could be a good place to get a used kayak,
let's say for your trip to Phang Nga bay !

Just 3 houses to the west is a youth hostel. You have to ask for it, I saw
no sign. They rent out double fan rooms for B150 but will ask for a
membership card. Seems that with a little discussion, one can stay without
being a member. The place seems unknown amongst travellers. The lady speaks
fair English. Go to the GPS waypoint "CANOE", then 3 houses west. Best done
from the road. In the turn of the road, go straight into a smaller lane and
then immediately left into the yard of a house, where you will be greeted by
dogs.

On the western side of Ayutthaya, there's rustic wooden River Inn Guesthouse.
They charge THB 400 per night for a clean, traditional-style double.
They also have two canoes for rent, THB 500 per day.

An OK place to eat is Nim Ram Therepau Restaurant, on the bank of the river,
just where Pasak and Lopburi rivers meet (NE-corner of Ayutthaya, "inside").
Try the fried snake-headed fish (Pla Chong).

WHAT TO DO IN AYUTTHAYA (once you had enough of tempels and elephant rides):
I brought my own kayak (while you could rent one at the shop mentioned
above).
Launched nearby Nim Ram Therepau Restaurant, there is a police station with
a ferry pier for that purpose.
Paddel 5km up the Pasak river to Sunpasak Food Garden, which is located just
behind a larger bridge and in front of a whole fleet of stationary barges.
On the way, on the eastern side of the river, there's a sand beach (GPS
waypoint "BEACH1"). It's military terrain, try not to land there.
Along the way, many houseboats and rather traditional river life. I talked
to one lady who spoke English. Asked her why she washed the dishes in the
dirty river. She said it was traditional Thai style to do so.
The way back, I went along a sidearm of the river. Even more rural. Can buy
noodle soup from a boat that cruises the homes along the river.
Strangely, the Pasak River flows upstream in the morning and downstream in
the afternoon. It's hard to believe. I did it in the morning and went an avg
speed of  7km/h up, 4 km/h down. The sidearm follows the same pattern.
Traffic on the river is moderate. No really fast vehicles, but some pretty
heavy ones. Large and heavily laden barges come in a convoy of 3 or 4,
pulled by a tug. Locals swim to catch the rope between tug and the first
barge and hold on to it. Not difficult, try it. The barges travel at a speed
of 4 to 8 km/h downriver. Upriver, they are empty and go a bit faster.

Back to the "ringroad" around Ayutthaya, I go around in a counterclockwise
loop. From Lopburi River to Chao Phraya River to Pasak River. It's safe to
plan 6 hours for it, inclusive some stops.
Again, lot's of things to see and photograph. Not what they usually show to
tourists. And no touts.
Ayutthaya with its tempels looks pretty good from the water, a lot nicer
than from out of a tour bus that's stuck in a traffic jam.
Traffic on Chao Phraya is quite a bit but it's not a problem, as the river
is quite wide and there are no speedboats like in Bangkok. Current of this
big river is slow (<2km/h).
Finding food is less of a problem, one is surrounded by floating
restaurants. With a kayak, one is not only stared at by Thais but as well by
Japanese, Germans, Americans, ... It felt like being the major attraction of
the river, adding value to all those dinner cruises...
If for any reason there's a need to get into the city, it's as simple as
landing at a jetty and walking a few meters.
Problem I encountered are locals who mess with my boat while I'm away. No
bad will but foolishness at my cost.

For this sort of thing, I recommend a GPS and the data avail from this site.
For someone who speaks Thai and is patient, it should be no big deal
to get along without the high-tech.

Important notice: On the river, people go on the right side. On the road,
people drive on the left side.

eof